Friday, October 31, 2014

Cobh, Cork, and Blarney Castle (Day 11 - GToE)

Happy Halloween from Dublin. Surprisingly, Halloween is widely celebrated here in Ireland. Apparently, there are bonfires and fireworks in addition to the trick or treating that goes on. Very fun!

Today was my day trip to Blarney Castle and it was a gray and rainy day. What I wasn't aware of before heading out is that we also stopped at two towns along the way: Cobh (pronounced: "Cove") and Cork. Really, I could have done with skipping Cobh and Cork to give us more time a Blarney Castle, but what can you do. 

I met the tour group at 8:15 this morning. The tour consisted of a kick ass tour guide (John) and 5 tourists. Yep, it was a teeny tiny group. The other 4 tourists were all American college kids who are in Europe studying for the semester but they spend their weekends exploring Europe. I wish I had thought to do that when I was in college. It was a very friendly group. The trip to Cobh took approximately 3 hours from Dublin. 

Cobh (formerly known as Queenstown) has one particular historic significance. It is a major Irish port and was the final stop before the Titanic headed off on its maiden voyage. 123 people got on the ship in Cobh and of those 123, only 44 survived. Today, when I arrived in the town, I walked up to their cathedral (St. Colman's), which is one of the tallest buildings in Ireland. It is a beautiful neo-Gothic church. Oddly, there was a beautiful golden retriever hanging outside the church as I went it. After I left the church, I said goodbye to the dog, who proceeding to run ahead of me. Then he waited for me at the staircase leading back down into town and accompanied me the whole way. He then went along his way. After visiting the church, I went through the Titanic Experience tour which gives a brief idea of life on the Titanic. It has mocked up First and Third class quarters and such. Interesting, but not sure it was worth the €9.50.

Next, the tour stopped in Cork, which was basically a feeding place. Two of the girls and I did a little shopping and then grabbed some lunch.

Then we were off to Blarney Castle. Blarney Castle is a medieval castle which dates back to 1200. It is mostly a ruin, but the most important part of the castle is the Blarney Stone. The Blarney Stone is a limestone slab that is set high in the castle. "According to legend, kissing the stone endows the kisser with the gift of the gab (great eloquence or skill at flattery). The stone was set into a tower of the castle in 1446" (Wikipedia). Millions of visitors have climbed hundreds of steps in order to lie on their backs, lean as far over as possible, in order to kiss the stone. Well, when in Rome! Yes, that's a picture of me kissing the Blarney Stone. It was much more difficult than I thought it would be. 

After kissing the stone and checking out the castle, two of the students and I walked around the beautiful Stone Close, which are the mysterious and beautiful gardens on the grounds. There was so much more to be seen but we ran out of time. It was then another 3 hour bus ride back to Dublin.

Terrible weather today, but it was a tremendous amount of fun!!  Day 11 photos can be found on my GToE photo site

Thursday, October 30, 2014

More From Dublin (Day 10 - GToE)

Another day in "The Fair City" is done and I'm just as tired, but it's been a lovely, lovely day. Today's weather was not nearly as nice as yesterday, but at least the rain stayed away. So far I've been lucky with that on this trip.

If you remember from yesterday, I was heading off to an early bedtime. I ended up sleeping (off and on) for about 12 hours last night and believe me, I needed that sleep. I was up early and ready for a day of sightseeing. It started with a full Irish breakfast. Today's new food: white pudding. If you remember black pudding from my time in London, white pudding is similar to black pudding, but does not include blood. It consists of pork meat and fat, suet, bread and oatmeal formed into a large sausage. Yeah, not exactly health food but do I give a shite about eating healthy? I think not.

Today, because my legs are still aching, I thought I'd give them a little rest. I opted to do a Hop On-Hop Off Bus Tour. In cities that are walkable, I'm not a fan of the Hop On-Hop Off Bus Tours because it feels like a waste of money, but I really needed to give my legs a rest. Therefore, it was €17 well spent. I won't go through all of the stops but just the ones that are most interesting/important. The tour, of course, stopped at Trinity College, all the museums, Dublin Castle, Christ Church, St. Patrick's Catherdral, Guiness Storehouse, Kilmainham Gaol, the Old Jameson Distillery, and the Dublin Writers Museum. I did not go to all of these places today. There just wasn't enough time, but I did my fair share of them.

With the encouragement of the tour guide and knowing what friends have said about this site, I got off the bus at the Kilmainham Gaol. Kilmainham Gaol is a former prison turned museum and "played an important part in Irish history, as many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned and some executed in the prison by the British and in 1923 by the Irish Free State" (Wikipedia). After the prison became defunct, it fell into disrepair. Then a group of concerned citizens had the idea to refurbish the site in honor of those who lost their lives there. The tour was a grim reminder of how harsh prison life was a hundred or so years ago and that sometimes people were willing to pay the ultimate price for a cause in which they deeply believe. It was a very sobering visit. The saddest story had to be that of Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford. Plunkett was one of the leaders in the Easter Rising of 1916. He was captured and sentenced to be executed. He requested and was granted permission to marry his fiance, Grace Gifford, 7 hours before his execution. They were married in the prison chapel and had all of 10 minutes together in his prison cell. He was executed the following morning. A truly heartbreaking story.

After visiting the prison, I hopped back on the bus heading toward the Dublin Writers Museum. Along the way, we passed the Clarence Hotel which is owned by U2. I had no idea that they owned a hotel, but there you have it. I then arrived at the Dublin Writers Museum. While I'm uncertain that it was worth the €7.50 entrance fee, it was moderately interesting to read the history of some of Ireland's most famous writers - many of which I had never heard of before, although I certainly knew the "biggest" - Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, Samuel Beckett, James Joyce, and others.

I returned to Trinity College after the Writers Museum in order to go visit their library. According to reports, the library at the college is considered one of the most impressive in the world. Additionally, the library houses the Book of Kells, "an illuminated manuscript Gospel book in Latin, containing the four Gospels of the New Testament together with various prefatory texts and tables" (Wikipedia). I was less interested in the Book of Kells than the library but the entrance fee includes both. The Book of Kells was a fascinating look at an ancient book, but really the highlight was seeing the library itself with what looks like endless rows of books. It was a reader's paradise. 

Next I walked through Dublin's shopping district (meh), before heading to the National Gallery of Ireland (the art museum). I'm certainly glad the museum was free because it would not have been worthy an entrance fee. It's extremely tiny, but I did manage to ferret out a couple of nice Impressionist paintings.  I then went to see the Oscar Wilde memorial located in Merrion Square. It's a very colorful statue and would be something that Oscar would have loved. I hopped back on the bus. I couldn't decide whether to get off at the castle, Christ Church, or the Guiness Storehouse and eventually decided to do none of them. I was getting tired and it was getting late. So I will hold off on those three sites until Saturday. Instead, I stopped for dinner (as I hadn't had any lunch, I was famished) and then needed to do some laundry. Yuck! Funny thing is when I was in the US, I never did laundry, always sending it out. Now that I'm traveling, I don't have a choice in the matter.

Tomorrow, I head off to Blarney Castle where I intend to kiss the Blarney Stone. Remember to check out my Day 10 photos at my GToE photo site.

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Beannachtaí ó Bhaile Átha Cliath (Day 9 - GToE)

Translation: Greetings from Dublin


I have arrived in the very pretty city of Dublin. Because I'm on very little sleep, today has already been a very long day and it's only 3:30pm. When I last posted, it was just a little after 1:00am this morning and I had to wake up at 4:00am in order to be on time for my 6:50am flight out of Gatwick airport. Consequently, because I was a little worried about not getting up on time, I barely slept last night. Additionally, I've been feeling a little under the weather. I think something I ate yesterday is causing a little intestinal distress (TMI?) and that always makes for happy travels...not. 

You may ask: Sandi, did you get up on time? Yes, I kept waking up every 30 minutes or so to check the time and got up precisely at 4:00am. I departed from my friends' flat by 4:15am. (Jen and Bill even got up to say "bye" to me...awwww...that's love.)  I was very emotional leaving this morning because I had the best time in London and will miss Jen, Bill, their amazing friends, and a city that I love, but all good things must end. I hailed a cab which got me to Victoria Train Station in very little time, where I caught the 4:30am Gatwick Express which delivered me to the airport by a little after 5:00am. I zipped through the check in process and waited for my flight to Dublin. The flight actually departed slightly early (by 5 minutes) and arrived a little early into Dublin.

Here's a difference between the English and the Irish:  
Arriving at Heathrow Airport last week: Immigration Officer (looking at my declaration form): "So you're staying in the UK for 8 days." Me: "Yes." IO: "What is the purpose of your visit?" Me: "I'm on vacation." IO: "What are you plans while staying in the UK?" Me: "I plan on touring Edinburgh and London and visiting friends." IO: "You have friends here?" Me: "Yes." IO: "Who are these friends?" Me: "A couple of friends from college." Giving me a hard stare, IO: "Where will you go after the UK?" Me: "Dublin and then Amsterdam." IO: "Okay, have a nice trip."

Arriving at Dublin Airport today: IO: "How long will you be staying in Ireland?" Me: "4 days." (Stamping passport) IO: "Have a nice day."

I was waiting for the Heathrow IO to give me a colonoscopy before letting me into the UK. But I also expected perhaps a little more from the Dublin IO. Very strange.

But I digress, after arriving at the airport, I grabbed a bus into the city center and fairly quickly found my hostel - I only had to ask directions once. I checked into my hostel, but unfortunately my room would not be ready until 2:00pm (it was 9:00am). The receptionist informed me that there was a free walking tour of Dublin starting at 10:15 am. What to do? Breakfast, first! Even though I was still feeling slightly under the weather, I needed to get something into my belly, so I headed to a local bistro and had a "Mini-Irish breakfast" (egg, sausage, hash browns, toast, tea). Pretty yummy.

I then went back to the hostel to wait for the start of the walking tour (which technically starts at 11am, but they swing by the hostel to bring us all over the starting point). While waiting for the tour to begin, I chatted with a very nice woman from New Jersey. She had a fascinating life. Born in Communist China, she spent some time in the Middle East learning to be a nurse. She then was allowed to emigrate from China to the US, where she finally gained her citizenship in 2008. 

The tour started at 11:00 am and was 3-hour tour which gave a brief overview of the history of Dublin and showed us the highlights of Dublin's most famous sites. Dublin Castle, Christ Church, and Trinity College were just some of the highlights. The tour guide was phenomenal but, man, are my legs and arse still killing me. 

I returned to my hostel where I took my bags up to my room. It appears that in my 6-room dorm, there are only 3 of us in the room. We shall see if that remains the same. There is one thing I'm not a fan of with this hostel. The only place to access the Wi-Fi is in the common areas. So I have to lug my computer down two flights of stairs and the music that they play blows. Plus, it'll keep me from being able to watch anything online - there goes my ability to watch episodes of The Good Wife before heading to bed. Other than that, it seems like a nice hostel. They offer free breakfast in the morning and there are laundry facilities in the building.

Okay, I think I'm done for the day. The last thing that I'll do today is find some dinner, but otherwise, I need to rest up if I'm going to survive the next two months. As I just mentioned to Jen, I'm completely knackered! Don't forget to check out Day 9 photos on my GToE photo site. There aren't that many today (by comparison to others days). It's hard to take photos when on a walking tour.

Royal Residences, Declined Debit Card, and Quiz Night - London (Day 8 - GToE)

This is my final day in London. <sniff> I wish I could stay longer as it's been so much fun. (I get the feeling I'm going to be saying that a lot over the next 2 months.) It was yet another beautiful day in London with mild temperatures and beautiful blue skies.

Today was a strange, yet great day. After breakfast, I headed off to Victoria Coach Station to take a tour of London, Windsor Castle, and Hampton Court Palace. The tour of London contained some highlights of places on our way out of London. But one building that I found particularly interesting was next to the Royal Albert Hall. If anyone is watching the ITV series, Mr. Selfridge with Jeremy Piven, I got a snapshot of the building that is used in the show as the Selfridge family home. So excited!

We arrived in Windsor in the morning and had three hours in which to explore this wonderful historical castle. Windsor Castle was built in the 11th century by William the Conqueror and has been a royal residence for centuries. The Queen considers Windsor Castle as her home and Buckingham Palace as her office. Must be nice to have a home as beautiful as this one.The tour includes viewing of the state apartments and St. George's Chapel. As this castle is a working castle, the state apartments that I toured are the same ones that dignitaries from all over the world have viewed - although they're allowed to sit on the furniture. St. George's Chapel is where several of the most famous monarchs are buried, including Henry VIII, Charles I, and the Queen's parents - King George VI and the Queen Mother. After spending a couple of hours touring Windsor Castle, I took a stroll over the River Thames to Eton. I had no idea that Eton was so close to Windsor Castle. I didn't get as much time as there would have liked but it is a beautiful town.

After a quick lunch, it was back on the bus which took us over to Hampton Court Palace. HCP was originally built for Cardinal Thomas Wolsey, one of King Henry VIII's favorites, but when Wolsey had a falling out with the King, the palace passed to the King and was one of Henry's favorite homes. HCP is a massive structure with so much to take in. I managed to tour King Henry's apartments, the King's kitchens, and King William III's state apartments. The splendor of this palace is magnificent with beautifully designed gardens. HCP hires actors to portray various royal persons which makes it a very interactive visit. 

I returned back to Jen and Bill's place where I had to deal with a major pain in the arse. Earlier in the day I had gone to an ATM in order to get some cash out. My card was declined. I thought perhaps that it was the machine. I tried again later in the day with the same result. Finally, when I tried to pay for lunch with my debit card, it was again declined. ARGH! There wasn't anything I could do about this problem while on this tour. When I returned to Jen and Bill's, I managed (thru Jen's benevolence in allowing me to use her Skype account) to reach my bank. It turns out that someone had used my card in Stop and Shop in Massachusetts on Oct. 27. As the bank knew that I was in Europe, they froze my card. Oh for futz's sake. After much irritation and some compromise, it was worked out but I have to hope that my new card arrives in Amsterdam when the bank says it will or I'm pretty screwed. So what to do when something like this happens? Go to the pub, of course.

Tonight was quiz nite at the pub that Jen and Bill frequent. If you've never attended a quiz nite, you're missing out on a ton of fun. The basic premise is there are teams which consist of approximately 4 people and the MC asks random trivia questions and the teams do their best to answer the questions. The questions run the gamut from politics, sports, pop culture, etc. Out of the 5 teams who played tonight, my team came in .... last! Well, what can you do when the questions are mostly UK focused and you have 4 Americans on a team. It was the most fun ever!

For my last day in London, this was a pretty good one. Tomorrow I head for Dublin. It's after 1am and I have to be up at 4am to get myself to the airport. Ugh. There won't be much sleep tonight.

If you remember, I was unable to upload photos from yesterday because of a lost camera cable. Well, the new cable arrived today, so feel free to check out photos from Day 7 (yesterday) and Day 8 (today) at my GToE photo site. Enjoy.

Monday, October 27, 2014

Churches, Museums, and Jack the Ripper - London (Day 7 - GToE)

Today was a stunningly gorgeous day in London. It was sunny with very mild temperatures. I couldn't have asked for better weather. But there is a bit of sad news. I lost my camera cable and until the new one is delivered tomorrow, I cannot transfer my photos. You'll just have to deal with checking out my photos in a couple of days and the use of stock photographs for this posting.

Today, I explored all over the city. It started with a visit to St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's was designed by the great English architect, Sir Christopher Wren and was built on the site of the Old St. Paul's church which was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. In 1697, it was open for business and is one of the most iconic sites in London with its beautiful domed roof. It was repeatedly bombed by the Nazis in the Second World War but despite heavy damage, the church survived and was ultimately repaired. Many important ceremonies have taken place at St. Paul's, including the funerals of Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher, the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer, and both the golden and diamond jubilee services for Queen Elizabeth II. Below the church is the crypt where several important British figures are buried: Sir Christopher Wren, the 1st Duke of Wellington, and Lord Horatio Nelson. The church is beautiful and very ornate. Visitors are allowed to climb up into the dome, but as it takes over 1000 stairs to get to the golden gallery with its panoramic views of London, I opted out. I just didn't think I had that much energy in me.

After my tour of St. Paul's, I went to the British Museum. Home to the Rosetta Stone, the museum is a treasure trove of ancient civilization artifacts and is dedicated to human history and culture with over 8 million works. There were mummies, sarcophagi, statues, and all other really interesting items from ancient times. I kept watching the mummies to see if they would arise, but sadly none did. I didn't spend much time there as my interest lies in Ancient Egyptian artifacts. After viewing them, it was time to move along to my next adventure.

The Westminster walk: The walk started at Westminster Bridge where the Palace of Westminster (which is the meeting place of the  Houses of Parliament) and Big Ben are in prominent display. Note: Big Ben is not the name of the clock or the clock tower! Big Ben is the name of the bell that is housed within the clock tower. After snapping many a photo, I walked to Parliament Square and said "hello" to Winston Churchill and Nelson Mandala... okay, I said "hello" to their statues. I then, moved onto Westminster Abbey. The Abbey is a gothic church which was built in the 10th Century and has burials and memorials to some of England's finest citizens: Sir Isaac Newton, Charles Dickens, Alfred Tennyson, The Bronte sisters, Jane Austen, and so many others. I visited the abbey 13 years ago, but wanted to make another visit today. Sadly, the wait to get into the abbey was over an hour and I just couldn't wait that long. So I moved along...

I continued my tour by walking up Whitehall and passed #10 Downing Street (the British "White House"). The funny thing about #10 Downing is that it's nearly impossible to see the door from the sidewalk, but I snapped a photo all the same. I passed by the Horse Guard and snapped a couple of photos and then continued walking to Trafalgar Square which commemorates the Battle of Trafalgar and has a rather large statue of Lord Nelson. Behind Trafalgar Square is the National Gallery, which was my next stop (after a little picnic lunch in the square).

The National Gallery is an art museum which houses over 2,300 paintings. Today I decided to focus my visit. Instead of trying to see everything, I decided to see only my favorite art period: The Impressionists.  Don't get my wrong, I did make a quick sweep through the other galleries, but I can only see so many Madonnas, Jesuses, and other religious Renaissance subjects before I want to shoot myself. The Impressionists wing of the Gallery is incredible! Some of my favorite works of art are located in the National Gallery: Monet's The Water-Lily Pond, Van Gogh's Sunflowers and Chair, Seurat's Bathers at Asnieres, and many more. I spent a good amount of time, just sitting and drinking in those paintings. The paintings were equally moving and calming at the same time! 

After leaving the Gallery, I took a quick jaunt through St. Martin-in-the-Fields Church which is famous for their regular lunchtime and evening concerts. Sadly, I missed the lunchtime concert today and arrived to hear the last 2 minutes of music. I next walked from Trafalgar Square to Buckingham Palace.

Buckingham Palace is the London residence and principle workplace of the British monarchy. The Palace became the official residence in 1837 when Queen Victoria took the throne. As the current Queen is currently in residence, there are no tours available for the Palace, but I've seen it before. It was just nice to stand outside - snap a few pictures and look at the Queen's Guard standing so incredibly still. I finished my wandering tour by walking to Victoria Station before taking the tube back to Jen and Bill's for a much needed rest.

After resting, I met my friend, Jacquelyn for the Jack the Ripper walking tour of London. If you are unaware, Jack the Ripper was the name given to a Victorian serial killer who terrorized London starting in 1888. "Jack" killed an unknown number of women (mostly prostitutes) in the Whitechapel section of London and the identity of the killer has never been solved - no matter what recent events have been reported. Of the two walking tours I completed during my time in London, the Ripper tour was by far the better of the two. The Ghost tour was 80% history of London and 20% ghost stories -- and not very scary ones. The Ripper tour is entirely about the Ripper case as it walks in the steps of the Whitechapel murders and is frightening because it is real. The tour really only focuses on what is now known as the "Canonical Five" -- the five women that most experts agree were victims of Jack. Historically, there could be as few as 3 victims to as many as 20. At the end of the tour, the guide gives a list of possible suspects, but the reality is, we will never know the answer to who killed those women. Very interesting tour.

And so closes another day of my European tour. I will post today's photos tomorrow (hopefully). If you've missed any past days' photos, check out my Grand Tour of Europe photo site.

Sunday, October 26, 2014

Drawing Rooms, Poppies, and High Tea - London (Day 6 - GToE)

Welcome to Day 6 of my tour of Europe.

Have you ever wondered what living a middle class life would be like in London over the course of 400 years? If so, have I got a museum of you? If not, well, you'll just have to be bored for a little bit. My friend, Jen, told me about a museum located in East London, The Geffrye Museum of the Home. Founded in 1914, the Geffrye is "a museum specializing in the history of the English domestic interior" (Wikipedia). The museum has 11 period room which follow the transition of middle class living over the course of 400 years. The rooms start in 1690 and go right through the 1990s. It was a fascinating walk through history. My favorite was, unsurprising, the Regency period room (think: Jane Austen - see photo right). 

After leaving the Geffrye, I decided to head over to the Tower of London. The Tower of London is a historic castle located on the north bank of the Thames River and was also used at one time to house political prisoners who were then executed. It also is the repository for the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom. I didn't actually go into the Tower because I had visited 13 years ago, but I wanted to visit the Tower for one purpose only: to view the Blood Swept Lands and Seas of Red art installation. This installation marks the one hundred years since the first full day of Britain's involvement in the First World War. "Created by ceramic artist Paul Cummins, with setting by stage designer Tom Piper, 888,246 ceramic poppies will progressively fill the Tower's famous moat over the summer. Each poppy represents a British military fatality during the war" (website). First off, this art project is amazing and beautiful, but it has one drawback - the crowds. Again, the amount of people viewing this installation made me want to punch a baby, but it was worth the maddening crush of humanity. Additionally, I took some photos of the Tower Bridge, which is one of my favorite bridges.

Following the visit to the Tower, I met up with my friend, Jacquelyn, and we headed out for afternoon tea at the St. Ermin's Tea Lounge. Afternoon tea is a light meal typically served between 4:00 and 6:00 pm. The ritual of afternoon tea owes its origins to Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford. As a young women in the early 1800s, she lived during a time when it was common to eat only two main meals a day, with breakfast scheduled early in the morning and dinner occurring late in the evening. Weakened and irritated by hunger pangs each day, she decided to schedule time to take tea and snack each afternoon. Sad to say, I have never before been for a traditional afternoon tea, but that was all fixed today. We had a delicious meal of finger sandwiches, scones, and desserts accompanied with tea and unlimited champagne. Yeah, that's the good stuff! 

Tonight it was dinner at another pub that Jen and Bill love. I had (essentially) bangers and mash for dinner. Again, yummy!!

Remember to check out Day 6 photos at my GToE photo site. Warning: 85 photos!

Calling From London (Day 5 - GToE)

I suppose I should call this post Day 4.5 and 5, because I will be including last night's (Friday's) arrival in The Big Smoke. After nearly 5 hours on the train from Edinburgh, I arrived at King's Cross Rail station. I was going to check and see if Platform Nine and Three-Quarters was active, but I decided that it wasn't September 1st and the Hogwarts Express wouldn't be there. 

Instead, I transferred to the tube and made my way from King's Cross to Paddington Station which was a mere 3 blocks from my friends' flat where I am staying. First, I need to thank my friends, Jen and Bill, for allowing me to crash in their lovely home for these next few days. After arriving, we had a beverage and caught up on the latest and greatest news before heading out to one of the local pubs for dinner. I ordered the fish and chips and it was delicious! Lots of laughs and interesting topics were discussed over dinner and a pint. We returned to their flat and called it a night.

Today, I awoke and had a lovely breakfast, courtesy of my friend, Jen. The new food of the day: blood pudding. Blood pudding is "a type of blood sausage commonly eaten in Britain and Ireland. It is generally made from pork blood and a relatively high proportion of oatmeal" (Wikipedia) and is something that I've always wanted to try. Like the haggis, blood pudding might sound gross, but I found it delicious. 

I then needed to make a plan of attack for the day. Mostly, I am planning on seeing sites that I missed that last time I was in London 13 years ago. I started with walking to Portobello Road and checking out the market on Saturdays. Anyone who has seen the movie Notting Hill with Hugh Grant and Julia Roberts would recognize this area. It was packed to the gills with shoppers which makes my eyes twitchy. I quickly walked the entire market and then got out of the area as fast as my aching legs would carry me. But not before buying 3 new scarves.

Me in front of Kensington Palace
After leaving Portobello Road, I wandered a bit around Notting Hill before heading to Kensington Palace. I had visited the palace 13 years ago, but it's changed dramatically since that time. Kensington Palace was purchased in 1689 by William and Mary and has been a royal residence ever since. The visitors section of the palace is currently separated into four sections: (i) Victoria Revealed, which provides personal objects of Queen Victoria, (ii) the King's State Apartments, which are set up as the public rooms for King George II and his wife, Queen Caroline, (iii) Fashion Rules, which houses dresses from the collections of HM The Queen, Princess Margaret, and Princess Diana, and (iv) the Queen's State Apartments, which allows visitors to explore the private rooms of Queen Mary II, who ruled jointly with King William III. A fun aspect of this visit was in the King's State Apartments where performers dressed in period costumes would interact with visitors. I spent about 10 or 15 minutes chatting with one of the "Queen's companions" and she did not break character once. I was quite impressed.

After leaving Kensington Palace, I toured Kensington Gardens, where I walked around the Princess Diana Memorial Fountain and then stopped for lunch in the park at a little bistro called Lido, where I had a lovely chicken Caesar salad on focaccia bread. Continuing my exploration of Kensington Gardens, I photographed the Royal Albert Hall and the Albert Memorial. I then made my way across Hyde Park to the Wellington Arch and, finally, a visit to the Apsley House.

The Apsley House is the home of the 1st Duke of Wellington and his descendents. The magnificent mansion was aptly called 'Number One, London' due to it being the first house passed by visitors who traveled from the countryside after the toll gates at Knightsbridge. It is one of the best preserved English aristocratic town houses from the time of the 1st Duke of Wellington and has an amazing array of paintings. Sadly, photographs are not allowed inside the residence.

After a brief rest and a pot of tea at Jen and Bill's, it was time for evening entertainment. The evening started with drinks and appetizers with Jen and Bill and three of their friends. All 6 of us then ventured out into the London night to participate in a 2-hour London Ghost tour. The tour started around St. Paul's Cathedral and visited several places of rumored ghostly sitings and/or murderous intrigue. By the end of the tour, we were all physically tired, but to give ourselves a pick me up, we headed to a local pub for a few pints and many, many laughs. All in all, it was a really fun evening.

You can see Day 4.5 and 5 photos at my GToE photo site.

Friday, October 24, 2014

Farewell, Edinburgh. Hello, London (Day 4 - GToE)

I am on the train from Edinburgh to London; I can't tell you exactly where but somewhere in England. As I write this posting, I'm watching the English countryside roll by and enjoying the views. But being highly annoyed by group of boorish men sitting behind me who decided to drink throughout the trip. Note to the UK train service: if you have a quiet car, please be sure that the entire car is designated as the "quiet car" - not a portion of the car. It annoys the hell out of someone who has booked the quiet car to be sitting right behind the section that is not part of the quiet car. ARGH! Okay, now that I got that off my chest...

I thought I'd provide a little reflection on my time in Edinburgh. If you've never had the pleasure of going to Edinburgh, I highly recommend a visit. The people of Edinburgh (Edinburgians? Edinburghers?) are the most amazing people. I'm not certain if I've met a nicer group of people. They are incredibly helpful and unbelievably nice. For this jaded ex-NY-er, it's nice to see that there are city dwellers who aren't just miserable gits - as a whole. There are nice NY-ers (individually) but mostly NY-ers (as a group) are a-holes. Not so in Edinburgh. I also got a chance to spend some enjoyable time with Aussies, other Americans, Brazilians, and many other nationalities. Far more people are traveling than I would have thought in October.

In addition to the amazing residents, Edinburgh is beautiful and historically fascinating. They have a rich and proud history which is reflected in the architecture all over the city. My only mild complaint is that the city is build on a hill so there are a lot ... and I mean A LOT of stairs and steep winding streets which takes its toll on your legs and arse. But it's also part of the charm of the city. This city was the perfect spot in which to start my tour of Europe.

In addition to speaking the English language with a heavy accent, many Scots also speak Gaelic. If you plan to travel to Scotland, here is a list of useful Gaelic phrases - don't ask me how to pronounce any of them:

Halò / Ciamar a tha thu/sibh? (Hello)
Ciamar a tha thu/sibh? (How are you?)
Is mise ... (My name is ...)
Madainn mhath (Good morning)
Feasgar math (Good afternoon/evening)
Tìoraidh / Tìoraidh ma-tha / Tìoraidh an-dràsta (Goodbye)
Tapadh leat (Thank you)
Tha mo bhàta-foluaimein loma-làn easgannan. (My hovercraft is full of eels.) 

Bonus points to anyone who recognizes the last sentence. To Edinburgh: I bid a fond soraidh (farewell). It was fun!
____

To London: I will be there in a couple of hours. Having visited London 13 years ago, I am thrilled to return to a city that I have been in love with for 30+ years. It'll be almost like returning home...almost. I can't wait to see some of my favorite sites and visit a few new ones, plus seeing my friends who live there. I predict that it will be an amazing time.

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Final Full Day in Edinburgh (Day 3 - GToE)

Today marks my last full day in Edinburgh and it was a day of full of sightseeing and walking. I wish that I had thought to bring a pedometer along to see how much walking I've done. My aching legs can attest that it has been A LOT of walking!!! As a friend mentioned, I'm going to have to buy new shoes really soon if I keep up this amount of walking.

Today started with a tour of the Real Mary King's Close. In Scotland, a close is a street or alleyway which leads off of the main thoroughfare through town. In Edinburgh, the main thoroughfare is known as the Royal Mile. If you think of the Royal Mile as the spine of Edinburgh, then closes will be the ribs that are connected to the spine. Mary King's Close is "an old Edinburgh close under buildings in the Old Town area of Edinburgh, Scotland. It took its name from one Mary King, daughter of advocate Alexander King, who in the 17th century had owned several properties within the close. The close was partially demolished and buried under the Royal Exchange, and later being closed to the public for many years, the complex became shrouded in myths and urban legends; tales of ghosts and murders, and myths of plague victims being walled up and left to die abounded" (Wikipedia). The close has been turned into a tourist attraction where visitors get an idea of what Edinburgh was like 400 years ago or so. It made me appreciate all the mod cons that we now have, i.e., plumbing, electricity, and modern medicine.

After departing Mary King's Close, I took a quick look around St. Giles Cathedral. It was a pretty church, but nothing spectacular. I then headed over to the New Town section of Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is split into two sections: Old Town and New Town. Old Town was founded in the 7th century and has preserved much of its medieval street plan and Reformation-era buildings. New Town is ... well ... not so new anymore, but, in comparison with Old Town, it's a child. New Town was built in stages between 1765 and 1850. Splitting these two sections of Edinburgh is the Princes Street Gardens. This was my next destination.

As I strolled through the gardens, I happened upon the Scottish National Gallery and the Royal Scottish Academy. Yes, two more museums - side by side. These are Scotland's fine arts museums which are some of my favorite places to visit. During my tour of the National Gallery, I observed some of the finest paintings by such notable artists as Titian, Rodin, Rubens, Gainsborough, and my personal favorites, the Impressionists (Degas, van Gogh, Renoir, Seurat, Monet and others). The Royal Academy is home to modern/contemporary artists and I often feel like I miss something when I view modern art. Today was no different. It's not that I don't like modern art, I just don't see how much of it art.

After leaving the museums, I continued to meander through the Princes Street Gardens. When I reached the end of the gardens, I continued to walk around New Town heading towards Dean Village. If it hadn't been for a friend (and a former Edinburgh resident), I would have never found this little oasis in the middle of this bustling city. Dean Village is a beautiful old mill village which sits along side the Water of Leith and makes for a nice respite from the bustling city.

I then walked back up Princes Street and headed to Old Town where I had a spot of tea and a scone. After tea, I headed to my hostel for a much needed rest. It was then time for dinner. I decided that I probably wasn't going to have many (if any) more opportunities after today for haggis, so I went to a local pub for a pint and a dinner of haggis, neeps and tatties. Yum! Deciding to make one final attempt at some night photos of the city, I meandered around taking random evening photos. They're not great, but at least I have something to show of evenings in Edinburgh.

You can view my Day 3 photos on my GToE photo site. Tomorrow around midday I head for London.
Crappy evening shot of Edinburgh Castle!

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

More From Edinburgh (Day 2 - GToE)

Hello again from Edinburgh! Today was another fun filled day of exploring this amazing city! After a fractured night of sleep, I awoke semi-refreshed but ready to continue my adventures.

It started with a visit to Starbucks for a chai tea and a bacon buttie (a bacon sandwich - seriously, Starbucks US needs to add this to their menu). This was followed by a trip to Argos, a store which sells pretty much everything, to pick up a "pay as you go" mobile phone. Note to anyone traveling to the UK - do not get a SIM card for O2 mobile because they do not accept non-UK credit cards. ARGH! Long story short - I had to find a O2 store in order to add minutes to my SIM card. 

After that, I started my sightseeing-filled day with The Writer's Museum, which I briefly mentioned yesterday. This museum "celebrates the lives of three giants of Scottish literature - Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson" (TWM website). Now I'm not much of a Burns or Scott aficionado, but I adore Stevenson. Housed on three floors of the historic Lady Stair's House, I saw personal objects, portraits, manuscripts, first editions, and so much more of each of these writers. It was an English major's/teacher's dream. Bonus: it was free! 

Following my visit to The Writer's Museum, I visited the National Library of Scotland. Unfortunately, I couldn't actually get into the reading rooms because you must have a library card, so I can only tell you that it is a beautiful building with some interesting exhibits. By now it was nearly 11am and time for a spot of tea. I happened upon the Elephant House (where JR Rowling penned her early Harry Potter books) and decided to stop for tea and a cake. Okay, I'll fess up - I didn't "happen upon" it. I knew where I was heading, but beyond the HP connection, it's an amazing quaint little tea shop. I had a pot of breakfast tea and a slice of lemon cake. YUM!!! This tea shoppe may require an additional visit. Naturally, in honor of JK Rowling, I started re-reading the first Harry Potter book while I was noshing. I'm such a nerd!

My belly filled with deliciousness, I moved along to the National Museum of Scotland, which is Scotland's natural history museum. (Also, free.) I spent about 2 hours touring this massive museum and observed some amazing artifacts. Even though I prefer art museums over natural history museums, it was still time well spent.  After leaving the NMS, I headed along Edinburgh's Royal Mile and decided to stop in the Edinburgh Museum (free). Less inspiring than the NMS, I gave it approximately 15 minutes of my time.

I reached the end of the Royal Mile and my next destination: the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Not free, but worth every pound paid. This magnificent palace is the Queen's official residence in Scotland. I started with touring the Queen's Gallery which was exhibiting the history of Britain's poets laureate. Okay, I'm not much of a poetry fan but it was interesting enough. I then toured the royal palace and the attached ruined abbey. Unfortunately, you do not get to see the entire palace, but the tour includes the State Apartments and Mary, Queen of Scots' Chambers. If you like tapestries, go to Holyroodhouse. They have some of the most exquisite tapestries. But the most beautiful part of the palace was Mary, Queen of Scots' Chambers. Her bed is stunning. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed in the palace, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

After touring the palace, I went across the street to the hideous (on the outside) Scottish Parliament building. Sadly, Parliament was not in session, but the inside of the building is beautiful. The outside is jarringly ugly because it does not fit in at all with the rest of the city. I then walked Princes Street, which is Edinburgh's shopping district where I had a late lunch/early dinner (4:30?) of a traditional Cornish pasty. Finally, I ended up on top of Calton Hill, the first public park in Edinburgh. The views from up on the hill are stunning as are the monuments located on top.

I returned to my hostel for a brief rest, before heading out once more to take an evening tour, called The Dark Side tour, which is a 2 hour walking tour of Edinburgh's "creepiest sites and darkest tales". The tour actually lasted 2.5 hours and strange tales were told of witch burnings, body snatchers, living burials, Edinburgh's cannibals and vampires, and touring cemeteries. Very fun!!!! Sadly, my camera takes crappy nighttime photos or I would have had some stunning evening views of the city.

All in all, it was a great, but very exhausting day with tons of walking. You can see my Day 2 photos on my GToE photo site. Fair warning: I took a boatload of photos today!

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Greetings from Edinburgh, Scotland! (Day 1 - GToE)

First let me say this: to all you people who have the ability to sleep on an airplane, I hate you! :-) In my entire life, I have never, ever been able to sleep on a plane. It doesn't matter how long or short the flight is, sleep is not happening. As of this posting, I have been awake for over 30 hours straight. For an old insomniac pro like me, this loss of sleep isn't usually an issue, except that I've been a little busy running around like a maniac over the past 24 hours or so. Ah well, such is the life of a world traveler.

Here's where my Grand Tour of Europe begins:

Monday, Oct 20, 6:06pm: British Airways flight from Philadelphia International Airport to Edinburgh (with a connection through London) departed. It was a mostly uneventful flight, with the lone exception of the passenger who sat next to me with his arms akimbo and legs spread - invading my personal space. ARGH. Otherwise, a smidgeon of turbulence and a lot of reading (14 chapters). 

The flight arrived in London on Oct 21 at 5:20 am -- 50 minutes early, so I had plenty of time to get through security before I boarded my flight to Edinburgh. The flight was scheduled to depart London at 8:00am and was only delayed by 5 minutes -- arriving in Edinburgh by 9:20am. After grabbing my checked luggage, I traveled via bus to my hostel in Center City. By the way, the people of Edinburgh are incredibly nice and helpful!! 

I arrived at my hostel around 10:15am and was told that my room was available immediately, which is a rarity but I grabbed the key and climbed the 5 flights of stairs (ARGH!) to Penthouse 4. It's not nearly as glamorous as it sounds, but it's a single room to myself, so I'll take the exhaustive climb. I was told by reception that there was a free 2.5 hour walking tour of Edinburgh starting at 11:00 am and if I hurry, I could make it. So despite the lack of sleep, I immediately ran up the block in order to take this lovely walking tour. The tour guide, Ben, was amazing and really gave some incredibly interesting information. In fact, he was so great, that I signed up for the 2pm walking tour of Edinburgh Castle which he was guiding. Yeah, I'm a whack job, but I kept getting a second wind and pressing on. You can see all my photos on my Grand Tour of Europe photo site.

Some highlights: I saw the exterior of the tea/coffee shop (The Elephant House) where JK Rowling penned the first of the Harry Potter novels (to be visited sometime in the next couple of days), the school that inspired Hogwarts, the exterior of the cathedrals of Edinburgh (to be visited), the site of the last public execution, the Writer's Museum, and so much more.

There was a bit of weirdness at Edinburgh Castle which I did not expect. There were a couple of exhibits that had a Disney World feel to them, similar to going on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride - very bizarre. Oh, did I mention the cold temperatures and high winds thanks to a hurricane? Yeah, it was chilly out -- very brisk. Actually I didn't think it was any worse than a breezy New England day, but some people were miserable. 

I finished up my day early - 4:30 dinner at a local pub where I dined on ... ready? ... HAGGIS!! If you are unaware of haggis, I will inform you. Haggis is "a savoury pudding containing sheep's pluck (heart, liver and lungs); minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock, and traditionally encased in the animal's stomach and simmered for approximately three hours. Most modern commercial haggis is prepared in a sausage casing rather than an actual stomach" (Wikipedia). I know it sounds nasty and gross, but believe me, it is delicious. I actually had "Haggis, Neeps & Tatties", which is one layer each of haggis, mashed turnips, and mashed potatoes drizzled with a whiskey cream sauce (see photo). Oh sweet dinner, where have you been all my life? 
As for the rest of my night - a shower, a movie, and bed. I doubt I'll even finish the movie. I also have to figure out what I'm going to do tomorrow because the tourist stuff that I had planned for tomorrow, I did today.

As for the rest of the Grand Tour of Europe, I am uncertain if I will be able to post every night the activities of the day, but I will do my best.


Sunday, October 19, 2014

Weirdest Medical Practices in History...

For the past couple of days, I've been catching up on the Cinemax series, The Knick, a drama about a fictitious hospital set in 1900 New York City. Created by Academy award winning director Stephen Soderbergh and starring the talented British actor Clive Owen, the series is "centered on the Knickerbocker Hospital and the groundbreaking surgeons, nurses and staff who work there, pushing the bounds of medicine in a time of astonishingly high mortality rates and zero antibiotics" (Cinemax website). For the record, this series is fantastic and if you're not watching it, you should be.

Inspired by this series and finding the antiquated medical methods portrayed absolutely fascinating, I decided to do a little research on the strangest medical practices from history. These are some freaky practices, but I'm certain in a hundred years, people will look back at this time period and wonder about our barbaric medical practices.

Children's Soothing Syrup

In the 19th century, people were simply too busy making soap, waxing their moustaches, or changing in and out of 15 layers of undergarments every time they needed to pee to deal with disobedient children. To assist the overly stressed Victorian era mother, a series of "soothing syrups," lozenges and powders were created, all which were carefully formulated to ensure they were safe for use by those most vulnerable members of the family. Oh, no, wait. Actually, they pumped each bottle full of as many narcotics as it could hold.

For instance, each ounce of Mrs. Winslow's Soothing Syrup contained 65 mg of pure morphine. Gee, that seems a bit excessive. Finally in 1910, the New York Times decided the whole narcotic-babysitter concept was probably bad in the long run, and ran an article pointing out that these soothing syrups contained, "...morphin sulphate, chloroform, morphine hydrochloride, codeine, heroin, powdered opium, cannabis indica," and sometimes several of them in combination.
You can't say the soothing syrups weren't effective, as long as you didn't mind your toddler being strung out or, you know, dead. That's right, the terrible 2s weren't just a cutesy euphemism back then. Kids were not only at their brattiest but also often died, in many cases after their parents tried to cure the aforementioned brattiness with narcotic concoctions that would numb a grizzly bear.

Curing With Mercury

Mercury is pretty neat stuff. The shiny silvery liquid has fascinated humans for thousands of years (there's evidence people used it as early as 1500 BC) and will undoubtedly continue to fascinate far into the future until shape-shifting T-1000 terminators overtake the planet. How could something so awesome not be good for you?

That was the thinking for centuries, when Mercury was used to treat pretty much anything and everything. Scraped your knee? Just rub a little mercury on it. Having some problems with regularity? Forget fiber, time to get some mercury up in there! If you lived more than a 100 years ago, you simply weren't considered healthy if you weren't leaking silver from at least one orifice.

Mercury, as we now know, is toxic as hell. Symptoms of mercury poisoning include chest pains, heart and lung problems, coughing, tremors, violent muscle spasms, psychotic reactions, delirium, hallucinations, suicidal tendencies, restless spleen syndrome, testicular twisting, and anal implosion. OK, I made up the last few, but they barely looked out of place on that horror show list of symptoms, right?

It's a testament to just how cool a substance Mercury is that people kept trying to cure shit with it for 1,000 years after everybody who ingested it dropped dead. There was a silver lining, though, as it helped to fight the spread of STDs. Mercury was used as a cure for syphilis and to its credit, the "cure" usually resulted in one less syphilitic person in the world. It's generally believed Mozart was poisoned by mercury-based syphilis cures, which contradicts the film Amadeus in which he was killed by somehow writing too much music.

Heroin-based Cough Suppressant

In the late 19th century, people apparently took cough suppression seriously. I'm talking "I'm-going-to-take-me-some-heroin-to-calm-this-cough" level serious. Victorians were sticklers for social etiquette and wheezing your head off was probably considered frightfully rude, but I can't imagine that tying off and shooting some horse in the middle of a dinner party would go over terribly well, either.

Well you probably don't need me to tell you how addictive and destructive a drug heroin really is, but just in case ... Heroin? Might want to avoid that stuff. On the upside, it actually does suppress coughs, so if you do decide to become a junkie at least you'll save on buying Ricola.

Heroin, by the way, was originally developed by Bayer. You know, those friendly folks behind harmless old aspirin.

Oh, and I should also mention that Bayer used to be called IG Farben, a pharmaceutical and chemical conglomerate that allegedly sponsored experiments by Nazi torturers. How is this not at the center of every single Tylenol ad campaign? "The fast acting pain reliever that has never sponsored Nazi torture camps."

Electrical Impotence Cures

Men have been desperately searching for solutions to their malfunctioning members since Grok, the caveman clubbed a cavewoman, dragged her to his cave -- only to drag her back out again a half hour later with an embarrassed look on his face, and muttering excuses about how tired he is. In the late 19th century, the wonders of electricity became to be known to the common person. Surely this marvelous new technology could be used to heat things up in the boudoir, right?

Electrified beds, elaborate cock shocking electric belts, and other strange devices were advertised as being able to return "male power" and prowess by making your penis rise to electrified attention like Frankenstein's monster's member.

What's fascinating is that you can find ads for more than one brand of electric penis-shock belt. That seems to indicate that the penis-shock belt industry somehow survived the negative word of mouth from the first penis-shock belt user. By "word of mouth," I mean the incoherent screams of the first customer, which could presumably be heard in the next town.

Trepanation

Trepanation is a fancy word for drilling holes in your head. This is actually the oldest surgical procedure known to man as humans have been intentionally knocking holes in their skulls dating back to the time of Grok, the cavemen.

Historically trepanation was most commonly used as treatment for seizures and migraines. Surprise, surprise. Having a gaping hole drilled in your skull (usually without anesthesia) did very little to help people's headaches or brain issues. Trepanation was also used as an extreme form of cosmetic/experimental body modification amongst several societies such as the Incans and Mayans. These societies also got largely wiped out, then a few hundred years later suffered the indignity of having an insulting Mel Gibson movie made about them, so it didn't really work out that well.

Oh, and yes, a few brilliant individuals still practice trepanation to this day. To give you an idea of the oh-so-solid ground today's trepanation supporters' beliefs are built on, the biggest modern proponent of trepanation is a "Doctor" Bart Hughes. I put doctor in quotations marks because he never actually finished medical school. That's right, kids, you, too, can be a college dropout and yet still go onto a career convincing people around the world to do incredibly idiotic things. Continue to reach for those stars.

Curing Female "Hysteria"

How many jokes have been made about women and their mood swings? Now, I will admit that most women have the occasional bit of moodiness, especially at that special time of the month. But according to 19th century doctors, it's a symptom of a deadly serious medical condition (along with other symptoms such as nervousness, irritability and the dreaded "tendency to cause trouble"). That's right, ladies, you may be a victim of female hysteria and not even know it.

So, how exactly do you cure a so-called "condition" that coincidentally was diagnosed almost entirely to those women who dared disobey their Victorian husbands? Glad you asked. The prescription for female hysteria was usually a good spot of doctor administered vaginal massage until the woman achieved "hysterical paroxysm."

Yes that's right, the cure for female hysteria was a doctor's hand down your bloomers until you weren't only thinking of England but screaming its name. Is it any wonder the list of symptoms for female hysteria was so long? Literally any ailment could fit the diagnosis. In those sexually repressed times visiting the doctor's office must have been like a trip to Disney World for most women.

Doctors of the day, on the other hand, were apparently, I don't know, gay or something since they actually objected to women's frequent desire to be "cured" by their magic fingers. Their solution to alleviate hand strain? They invented the vibrator, and thus this post comes to a happy ending.

Other notable medical practices: lobotomies, bloodletting, urine therapy, and tobacco smoke enemas.

Friday, October 17, 2014

Preparing for 2 Months Travel Around Europe...

In 3 days, I am scheduled to fly out of Philadelphia airport in order to spend 60 days backpacking around Europe. Wow! I cannot believe that the time has almost arrived for my departure. I'm in the process of deciding what to take with me, which is far more difficult to finalize than I thought.

There are some "must haves" that I will be packing: 
But the difficult part is what clothing to pack. Naturally, with being away for 2 months, I will need to do laundry, therefore I will not be over packing. But how much is too much or not enough? Here's my wardrobe plan:
  • 2 pairs of yoga pants
  • 3 long sleeve shirts
  • 1 short sleeve shirts
  • 1 skirt
  • 1 cardigan
  • 1 North Face jacket
  • Hat, scarf, and gloves
  • 1 sleep outfit
  • a robe
  • A week's worth of panties and socks
  • 2 bras
  • 1 pair of ballet flats
  • flip flops (for those questionable shower stalls)
This might seem sparse, but I'll be wearing a pair of yoga pants, a short sleeve shirt, a fleece, and comfortable walking shoes on the plane. I think it's a good list. All clothing are in similar colors of black, grey, and blue. Yeah, it'll be a very simple wardrobe for 2 months. I will add some funky scarves into the mix as soon as I can get to a store to purchase some - I accidentally donated all my scarves. It's a good thing I'm not much of a fashionista. I prefer comfort over fashion any day!

Have I missed anything important? Has anyone gone on a similar trip and brought more or less than I have?
My luggage